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Hanseatic City Guide – Mühlhausen

Address
City council Mühlhausen
Ratststraße 19
99974 Mühlhausen
Tel.:   +49 (3601) 45 20
Fax:  +49 (3601) 45 21 77
Email: info@stadtverwaltung.muelhausen.de
Tourist Information: service@touristinfo-muehlhausen.de

The Town

Mühlhausen in Thuringia is situated in the west of Thuringia between the Harz and the Thuringian Forest on the upper reaches of the Unstrut River. Mühlhausen is known as the city of towers and churches. It was first mentioned in 967 in a document of Otto II, German king and Roman Emperor.

In mediaeval times Mühlhausen was the most important city after Erfurt, which is capital city of Thuringia today.

Große Ratsstube (photo by Neumann)

Große Ratsstube (photo by Neumann)

During the centuries many different German kings and emperors stayed here and carried out many important political acts.

The town freed itself from the influence of the king in 1256 by destroying the palatine castle, now they were imperial free city. To this day buildings from this period characterize the townscape. You can find a remarkable town hall, its history reaches back to the 13th century. Furthermore visitors can discover an almost completely preserved town wall which is partly walkable, 11 preserved mediaeval churches and impressive stone as well as half timbered houses.

During the period of the Reformation and German Peasants revolt Mühlhausen was a centre because the radical reformer Thomas Müntzer preached in the town. He played an important role during this period and was finally executed in May 1525.

The Reformation also had influence onto musical traditions. Mühlhausen became a major centre for Protestant church music. The climax of the town’s musical life came during Johann Sebastian Bach’s time as organist at Divi Blasii Church from 1707 - 1708. The organ was rebuilt in 1959 according to Bach’s original 1708 specification.

Divi Blasii Kirche (photo by Sieland)

Divi Blasii Kirche (photo by Sieland)

In 1802 the town lost its privileges as a free imperial city and became the administrative centre of Prussian district.

The economy was based on textile production, wood growing, agriculture and long distance trade with these goods. During the 1848 revolution, it played an important role in the liberal movement. The onset of industrialization then brought expansion to traditional industries of Mühlhausen and introduced mechanical engineering and food production. Some of these sectors are still today very important for the town’s economy.

Mühlhausen in the Hanseatic League

Since 1286 the imperial free city was involved in the trade of the Hanseatic League. In mediaeval times the possibility for trades and alliances was limited, therefore connections to the near coastal cities in the northeast played a role for economic life in Mühlhausen. During the 14th and 15th centuries hanseatic activities generally took place through outposts in Lower Saxony. Important trade routes crossed the town and the industrial products were exported to England, Livland, Russia and Sweden.

Mühlhausen joined the modern Hanseatic League in 1990, the membership of the town is a well established part of its heritage. In 1996 a district of new houses in the north – eastern part of Mühlhausen received the name “Hanseviertel” (Hanseatic district) with streets named after hanseatic cities.

(photo by Sieland)

(photo by Sieland)

 

Celebrities

Kristan von Mühlhausen († 3. September 1295)
Kristan descended from a wealthy family of high-ranking imperial civil servants. In 1271 he joined the German Order. From 1272 he served as a pastor in the St. Blaise church. In the German Order he became commander of the regional administrative district of the Order around Mühlhausen. He rose to be the Bishop of Samland (Königsberg) in 1276 and he was a suffrage bishop of the Diocese of Mainz.

Thomas Müntzer (*before 1490 † 27 May 1525 (executed))
He studied in Leipzig and Frankfurt/Oder and had been engaged in pastoral activity in several places. In 1524 he came from Allstedt to Mühlhausen, but in September the political situation changed and Müntzer was expelled from the imperial free city. In February 1525 he was back in Mühlhausen and at St. Mary's Church he preached for the return to "The Law of God". Müntzer became the spiritual leader of the radical reformist wing in the Peasants' War. After the military defeat of the rebelling peasants near Frankenhausen he was captured, tortured and finally executed outside Mühlhausen.

Heinrich Pfeiffer († 27 May 1525 (executed))
Inspired by reformation ideas, Heinrich Pfeiffer fled the monastery of Reifenstein in 1521. The preaching in his hometown Mühlhausen intensified the ongoing political tensions in the city. He was expelled from Mühlhausen but returned soon. He became Thomas Müntzer's associate in August 1524. In spring 1525, he and Müntzer became the leaders of the revolts in Mühlhausen and Thuringia. He was captured and beheaded next to Müntzer.

Johann Rudolf (*24 December 1625 † 9 July 1673) and
Johann Georg Ahle (*12 June 1651 † 2 December 1706)

After studies in Göttingen and Erfurt Johann Rudolf Ahle became cantor at St. Andreas in Erfurt. In 1654 he was appointed organist in his home town of Mühlhausen. Starting in 1655 he served as a member of the town council and in 1673 he was elected their mayor.

Johann Georg Ahle became the organist at the Divi Blasii Church, thus becoming his father's successor. In 1680 he was declared poet laureate by the Emperor.

As recognised organists and composers, father and son solidified Mühlhausen's reputation as a city of church music.

Johann Sebastian Bach (*21 March 1685 † 18 July 1750)
Following his organ recital in Mühlhausen on 24 April 1707, Johann Sebastian Bach was appointed organist at St Blasius’ on 15 June 1707. In Mühlhausen he composed well-known cantatas such as I call you from the depth, My Lord; BWV 131 and God is my King; BWV 71. These are typical compositions for his time in Mühlhausen often referred to as the period of his "early masterpieces". In 1959 the organ builder Schuke revived Bach's ideas and built a new organ for Mühlhausen.
On 25 June 1708 Bach wrote a petition to be relieved of his duties for a number of reasons. However, he remained a friend of the town all his life.

Willhelm Gottlieb Tilesius von Tilenau (*17 July 1769 † 17 May 1857)

After studies of medicine, natural sciences and philosophy Tilenau was appointed professor of natural history at Moscow University in 1802. He took part in the first Russian world sailing tour and documented the finds. His work was honoured by admission to the Petersburg Academy of Sciences. In 1814 he returned to his birthplace Mühlhausen. By illustrating the "Chronicle" of his uncle Christian Gottlieb Altenburg he ensured an enduring reputation for himself.

Carl Theodor Gier (*9 November † 10 November 1856)
Gier studied medicine and law and joined the German student association Burschenschaft dedicated to liberation from Napoleonic rule. In 1821 his hometown Mühlhausen appointed him a member of the municipal council. Although he was its youngest member, he was elected to be mayor in 1829.
Consistently advocating bourgeois-liberal ideas, he joined the Frankfurt National Assembly and opposed Prussian reactionary forces. Because of this, he was suspended as mayor by the king in 1849. He was re-elected in 1856, the king did not approve.

Friedrich August Stüler (*28 January 1800 † March 1865)
After technical training and construction work Stüler passed his exam for the title of Master Builder with distinction. Promoted by the famous Prussian architect and designer Karl Friedrich Schinkel he completed his studies and became an architect. His outstanding skills as well as his contacts to Friedrich Wilhelm IV, King of Prussia, were the base for a successful career - 1829 building supervisor at the court, 1831 Court Building Counsellor and director of the committee in charge of the construction of the royal palace, 1842 "Court Architect". Among his masterworks are the buildings of the Academy of Science in Budapest and in Berlin the New Museum, the National Gallery and the New Synagogue (co-designed by Knoblauch), the National Museum of Stockholm and the Hohenzollern Castle.

Johann August Roebling (*12 June 1806 † 22 June 1869)
Roebling studied engineering and architecture, he had close contacts to Friedrich August Stüler, his fellow countryman from Mühlhausen. He attended lectures given by the philosopher Hegel before he went to work as a civil servant for the Prussian state authorities for a couple of years. Not seeing any career advancement for himself he emigrated into the USA in 1831.
There he could successfully use his special skills in the rapidly growing field of public engineering and transport projects. His invention of the wire rope suspension bridge made it possible to build connections and spans stronger than any seen up to that time. The bridge across the Niagara Falls (1855; 458 m span) and finally Brooklyn Bridge (1883, 487 m span). He died in 1869 after an accident. His son Washington finished the Brooklyn Bridge in New York.

Erika Riemann (* 25 December 1930)
The author Erika Riemann - born in Mühlhausen in 1930 - describes in her book "Die Schleife an Stalin’s Bart" eight agonising years of her youth between 1945 and 1954 when she was imprisoned behind thick walls.
Her crime: She defaced a big portrait of Josef Stalin which hang in the newly opened school in Brückenstraße in Mühlhausen by drawing a bow on his moustache.
For many years Erika Riemann was reluctant to share her experiences in the prisons of Sachsenhausen, Bautzen and Hoheneck publically - but eventually she felt compelled to tell her story.

Sights

Historical Weir System with Raven Tower and Hospital Tower
Mühlhausen is one of the few cities with a preserved and almost complete city wall. The 2750 m long building with its defence towers was constructed in the 13th century. From the Inner Ladies Gate the fortification is accessible for about 330m. You can discover interesting museum attractions and from the visitors’ platform of the Raven Tower you can enjoy a marvellous view over the city and its surroundings.

Church of St. Mary – Müntzer memorial place
St. Mary's Church is the second-biggest hall church in Thuringia after the Erfurt Cathedral and has always played an important role in the history of the town. During mediaeval times it was the location where important decisions of imperial jurisdiction were proclaimed. It was the place where Thomas Müntzer preached during the German Peasants' War. Johann Sebastian Bach's cantata at the election of the city councillors was performed for the first time and many other important political acts had been carried out. Today it is used as Müntzer memorial, as a venue of art and culture, a stage for music performances and as place of religious life.

Peasants’ War Museum (Kornmarktkirche)
The former monastery Church of the Holy Cross, located at Kornmarkt Square, is a typical mendicant order church with a plain and well-proportioned architecture. After its secularisation in 1802 it was used as granary and as the weighing station of the city, it later changed into dwellings and office rooms. The church has received its present appearance and reputation only since its restoration from 1973 till 1975. Today it shows an exhibition which informs about process, climax and after – effects of the German Peasants’ war, it is also used for special events, such as musical performances.

Town Hall
Its main part dates back to around 1300. Extended by Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements, the town hall represents a unique building ensemble right in the middle of the town. The hall and the salon with its Gothic wall paintings are worth seeing. Furthermore the imperial – free city archive of 1614 is located in this imposing building.

Synagogue
A synagogue in Mühlhausen was first mentioned in 1380. The current synagogue building of 1841/1842 was violated on November the 9th in 1938. After the war, it was transferred to the Jewish Landesgemeinde Thuringia. After overall restoration that began in 1987, the synagogue was re-consecrated in 1998. The church and parish buildings are meeting places with an exhibition and library.

All Saint’s church – museum gallery
It is the smallest of the Mühlhausen medieval parish churches. The inhabitants of Mühlhausen were forced to build this church (completed in 1287) as atonement for the destruction of the castle chapel. It was a very plain church and its hall even did not have a choir. It was then extended in the 14th century by displacing a wall to the north and thus integrating the steeple into it. In 1525 the church was mentioned in a document that reported the revolting citizens of Mühlhausen, lead by Thomas Müntzer. In 1689 the church was destroyed by a fire and the new built church in Baroque style had an extended steeple. Restoration between 1885 and 1989 created an appealing church which can be used for exhibitions. A bronze statue of Heinrich Pfeiffer is situated in front of the church.

Museum at Lindenbühl
The Neo-Renaissance building by the city wall provides information about town history of Mühlhausen and about nature issues of the region in permanent and special exhibitions.

Divi Blasii Church
The Church of St. Blasius is the main church in Mühlhausen's district Unterstadt. It was built in the 13th and 14th centuries by the German Order (Deutscher Orden) and it was the first big church in Gothic style in central Germany. Elements of its architectural style are the same as those used in French cathedrals and thus reveal that it once may have been used as the bishopric seat of Kristan von Samland, who had initiated the building of a new church there. Later, in 1707/1708, Johann Sebastian Bach worked in the church as organist. Its new organ, built in 1959, followed Bach's organ arrangements.

 

In the map

Facts and Figures

Foundation 967
Landmark Historical defence wall with raven tower; churches for example St. Mary’s Church; Divi Blasii Church
Geographic Latitude 51°12’29 North and longitude 10°27’23 East
Nearest city Erfurt (60km)
Population Approximately 37.000
Transport Motorways: 30 km to A4 Eisenach, 30 km to A38 Leinefelde
Airports: 60 km to Erfurt, 80 km to Kassel
Train connection
Local features 13 churches, completely preserved city wall which is partly walkable, Mühlhäuser plum jam
International events Thuringian J. S. Bach Weeks
Twin towns Münster (Ger), Eschwege (Ger), Tourcoing (F), Kronstadt (Ru), Saxonburg (USA)
International memberships Die HANSE, Alianza Del Clima e.V.

Sponsors